#Good bokeh lens full#
#Good bokeh lens plus#

Having said all that, I should upload some (people) shots - as I did get some decent bokeh shots with the FE242470, but they relate more to subject/subject distance/composition than to the lens, imho. And it is also reason why you should have (and carry) at least one prime lens. This is about stopped down sharpness and 'catching the action', not about landscape composition or great portraits in dimmed lighting. This is a reason why I consider the zoom lenses 'daytime' lenses. Generally speaking, for bokeh shots I would not mount a zoom lens, but rather switch to a prime lens.

#Good bokeh lens plus#

I have seen users getting decent bokeh from both the E1670Z and the FE2470Z at the long end, at f/4.0, which I consider a plus for said zoom lenses. and 1 gives you a bright rim (bad bokeh).

The 30mm will give you the equivalent of 45mm if you wanted to get close to 50mm. You can buy the Sigma f1.4 16mm, 30mm and 56mm respectively £279, £219 and £289 brand new.

#Good bokeh lens full#

I think the Sigma 50mm f1.4 is for full frame but could be wrong. The default of 0 gives a constant brightness (neutral bokeh), -1 is brighter at the center and a falloff towards the edge (good bokeh). I use the Sigma 16mm f1.4 and 56mm f1.4 all the time, excellent lenses. Using the right combination of these factors as appropriate for the subject. You are able to mimic the good (or bad) light falloff in your lens by using this control. There are four factors that play a part in the visibility of the bokeh effect (i.e., the degree of defocusing in the intended area): Aperture, focal length, shooting distance, and distance between subject and background. However, a complex, multi-group f/6.3 restricted zoom lens cannot compete with a prime lens of similar focal length at, let's say, f/2.8. 4 important factors for creating visible bokeh. This also applies to the 24-240 lens, at the long end, quite a bit past the 166mm mark (the aperture remains the same). You can get decent bokeh from any long lens by going closer (stepping forward and zooming in) to your subject, and having a background sufficiently far away.

2) The composition does not have 'good' bokehįor bokeh you want to maximize the relative separation between subject and background and then use the widest aperture possible - perhaps adding in Keit's Gaussian Blur to smooth things out.

1) Nope, a 24-240 lens will never be known for 'great' bokeh.

I think that the question has two answers: